Pattern-marker



(NoModeL) I A. P. WIOKERSHAM.

Pattern Marker.

No. 242,240. 2 r. Patented May 31,1881.

Fig 1 V N. PETERS. Phowwnu n hur. wznhinginn. DC.

NITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

PATTERN-MARKER.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Application filed February 21,1881.

To all whom it may concern: 1

Be it known that I, ANGELINE P. IVICKER- SHAM, of the city and county ofPhiladelphia, and State of Pennsylvania, have invented an Improvement inPattern-h Iarkcrs, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to apparatus designed to facilitate the cutting andfitting of dresses and other garments designed tofit close to the body;and it consists of a series of flexible plates, bands, strips, or formscapable of being bent to the shape of the body, said strips, forms, &c.,to be provided with a series of pointed prongs; further, in securing thesaid strips, forms,&c., together by means of a series of elastic bands,or their equivalent, allowing said strips, 850., l to be properly placedas regards position on the form or body; further, providing the clasticbands which encircle the neck and arm with plates, or their equivalent,provided with projecting points; further, in a bust made of heavy paper,card-board, or other equi valent material, said bust being made by meansof the system or pattern-marker, each of the seams of said bust beingprovided with a series of projecting pointed pins corresponding to theprojecting points on the pattern-marker when fitted to the body,further, in adapting the waistband to slide upon the strips, 850., tosuit any length of mist, and other minor details, all of which are morefully set forth in the following specification and shown in theaccompanying drawings.

Heretoforc pattern-markers have been constructed to simply take down orindicate the measurements of the body, which were afterward traced upona paper, which was afterward cut to correspond; but in no case, so faras I am aware, has a pattern-marker been designed to lit the body andprick the pattern out upon a paper without any measurements being takenor laid out upon the paper.

The object of my invention is to produce a pattern-1n arker adapted toany shape or form, and which will give the exact pattern for the body atone operation and sitting; and, further, to be enabled to produce by theaid of said apparatus a bust of paper or card-board upon which the dressmay be fitted in the absence of the original, from which the same wasdesigned.

Patent No. 242,240, dated May 31, 1881.

(No model.)

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective view of the front and side ofalady having my improved pattern-marker applied. Fig. 2 is a perspectiveviewof the back and side of same. Fig. 3 is a perspective view of theadjustable device for the waistband. Fig. 4 is a crosssection of same.Figs. 5 and 6 show two methods of securing the projecting pins or pointsto elastic about the neck and armhole. Fig. 7 is a perspective view ofthe top of one strip, and shows one of the hooks to support the paper orcloth during markin Fig.8 is a perspective view of the paper bust. Fig.9 shows a section of one of the seams of same.

A A are a series of thin flexible strips of metal, as brass, tin,copper, or other equivalent material, adapted to conform to the shape ofthe body. These strips correspond to the seams, and down the middle theyare provided with projecting points or pins I, and are secured togetherby elastic or flexible bands F. There are as many strips A as there areseams to the one-halt the body, as it is not necessary to measure bothsides; but, if desired, the strips maybe so arranged as to indicate allthe seams. The plate Gris also flexible and corresponds to the darts,and down the two vertical edges are a series of projecting pins, I,similar to those on strips A. This plate is also secured to the bands F.The chest, back, and shoulder strips A are secured to the elasticcollar-band G, which is provided with a series of metallic plates, J,provided with pins I, as shown in Figs. 5 and 6. An elastic band, B, ofsimilar construction encircles the arms, and to it are secured theshoulder-strip, through the agency of adjustable slide-plate D and theside and back strips, A, as shown.

The waistband E is made of an elastic band, or its equivalent, and issecured to the adj ustable slide-plates D, which fit upon and slide onstrips A and dart-piece Gr.v In the case of the dart-plate there is aslot cut therein, into which fits the plate D, which is keptfrom comingout by bars H, but yet allow it to be adjusted vertically in the slot.By this means the waist may be raised or lowered to suit the person tobe fitted. The bands F and E are extended to pass around the body and betied, as shown; or extra pieces for this purpose may be used.

At the top of each of the strips A, and at the top, middle, and bottomof the dart-plate G, and on any other parts or in any places desired,are secured small hooks K, as shown in Fig. 7. In cutting a patternknown as the Gabrielle there is an extra strip, L, used, as shown indotted lines, Fig. 1. This piece Lis in all particulars the same as theother strips, being provided with the pins I, and fitting in thedart-piece G by means of a socket or other equivalent device. Also, insome cases the second back-seam is to be cut to the shoulderstrip, asshown in dotted lines M, Fig. 2. This strip is in all particularssimilar to the extra strip L. The slide D allows lengthening orshortening of the shoulder-seam, as desired or required.

I do not confine myself to any number or shape of seams, as they willchange as the fashion changes neither do I limit myself to the adjustablc slides or the particular method of securing them together, formy invention comprehends, broadly, any support for the projecting ormarking points or pins, or their equivalent-as, for instance,depressions or holes over which a point is passed, breaking the paper atthese points, so arranged as to conform to the shape of the body andcorrespond to the seams of the garment.

The bust form shown in Fig. 8 is made of card-board or equivalentflexible material, N, which has been perforated by the points I when onthe body.

The various parts thus made, instead of be ing used directly as thepattern, are bent into shape by steaming or otherwise, and the two edgesare lapped, as at O, and a doubleron 'ed )in I is )assed throu di theholes a: 7 7 l a a and one leg is bent down to hold the seam closed andthe pin in place, and the other leg is left standing to be used to markother pat.- terns. This is shown in Fi 9. In this case the bust is onlyadapted to fit dresses to the person from which it was made, and enablesthat person to have the dress titted without ever putting it on herself.

This pattern marker is also adapted for marking out sleeves, gentlemenscoats, and all other forms where the clothes must fit the body closely.

The operation is as follows: The apparatus is placed upon the body, asshown in Figs. 1 and 2, and the bands F and E tied. The strips are thenadjusted to suit the seams, the shoulder-strip is lengthened orshortened to suit, and the waist is raised or lowered to fit, and if thestrips need bending to conform to the body it is done. The elastic bandsF and E cause the strips to fit closely to the form. Now the paper, or,if desired, the cloth and lining,

is hooked upon the hooks K and pressed upon the pins I, which mark out apiece between any two seams, the hooks K preventing the displacement ofthe paper or cloth. After the marking is done the cloth is cut out alittle larger than the impression to allow for the seam, which is madeon the line of perforations. When the parts are sewed together the fitwill be found to be perfect. In case the party cannot go to theseamstress or dressmaker, a bust is made of card-board, as previouslydescribed, and the paper or cloth is marked out from this bust preciselyin the same manner as has been set forth above.

Having now described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is-

l. Apattern-marker which consistsof bands or strips of metalcorresponding to the seams, conforming to the shape of the body, andprovided with a series of projecting marking-pins, substantially as andfor the purpose specified.

2. A pattern-marker consisting of bands of flexible material providedwith projecting pins, said bands corresponding to the seams, and pressedto the form by bands of elastic material, to which they are secured,substantially as and for the purpose specified.

3. In a pattern-marker, a seam'marker consisting of a flexible strip orplate of metal provided with projecting points or pins, upon which thepaper or cloth is pressed, substantially as and for the purposespecified.

4. In a pattern-marker, flexible strips, bands, or plates of metalprovided with projecting pins, said bands corresponding to the seams,and pressed to the form by bands of elastic material, and combined witha waistband se cured to these strips, bands, or plates, and adapted tobe adjusted thereon, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

5. In a pattern-marker, metallic strips provided with projecting pins,said strips corresponding to the seams, combined with suitable means tosecure them together, and elastic adjustable neck and armhole bandsprovided with projecting marking-pins, substantially as and for thepurpose specified.

6. In a pattern-marker, the seam-strips A and dart-plate G, of metal orits equivalent, provided with projecting pins I and hooks K,substantially as and for the purpose specified.

In testimony of which invention I hereunto set my hand.

ANGELINE P. WIO KERSHAM.

Witnesses:

R. M. HUNTER, It. A. GAVIN.

